The Fabric of Civilization by Virginia Postrel narrates the fascinating history of humanity through the lens of the textile industry. The book tells a captivating and engaging story about the development of this ancient industry, detailing the ways in which textiles have shaped societies throughout history.
In Chapter One, Virginia Postrel delves into the earliest beginnings of the textile industry, tracing its development from as far back as 5,000 BCE in the Middle East. This chapter describes the innovative methods used by powerful empires to acquire raw materials, like wool from sheep and flax for linen. It also details how the invention of the spinning wheel and the loom helped to improve the quality and speed of textile production under the rule of the Roman Empire and beyond. As an example, at its peak, the Roman city of Ostia shipped millions of pounds of wool annually to various parts of the world.
In Chapter Two, the book follows the development of the textile industry through the Middle Ages and Renaissance, bringing to life the colorful dyes, intricate patterns, and fashions of this memorable era. Postrel covers the development of artisan guilds, which helped to standardize quality among practitioners of the art. She also touches on the proliferation of luxury fabrics and garments at the beginning of the fifteenth century, such as velvet and brocades. Ladoga, a region in present-day Russia, is a particularly striking example of the development of textiles during this period—a bustling trade center for the export and import of luxury fabrics and garments across Europe.
Chapter Three explores the early modern textile industry from the sixteenth to the eighteenth century, detailing the proliferation of specific fabric designs and the decline of the artisan guilds. Postrel also discusses the establishment of specialized industrial mills and companies and the introduction of machines like the flying shuttle and the power loom. One key example of these developments was the establishment of the Friend & Co. cotton mill in Philadelphia in the eighteenth century, a mill that closely resembled one that had been built in England two decades earlier.
In Chapter Four, Postrel discusses the Industrial Revolution, tracing the spread of industrialization and textiles to nations like Japan, India, and the United States, and highlighting the impact of the machine industry on labor and wages. As an example, Postrel details the improvement in wages for British mill workers in the later part of the eighteenth century as a result of the increased demand for their services.
The book's final chapter chronicles the technological advancements made in the industry during the twentieth century, from synthetic fibers to digital printing. Postrel also highlights the upscale “manufactured casual” clothing market, which has driven innovation in the fashion industry. An example of this is the iconic hooded fleece jacket produced by The North Face company, which first gained its popularity in the 90s.
Overall, Virginia Postrel does an incredible job of capturing the long and impressive history of the textile industry in The Fabric of Civilization. The book’s chapters each explore one critical period in weaving humanity’s fabric, narrating the development of the craft from ancient empires to modern-day manufacturers. Through beautifully crafted stories and examples, Postrel takes readers on an eye-opening journey through the colorful world of textiles.
