Opus Anglicanum

Synopsis

Opus Anglicanum, 'English work', was one of the high arts of the Middle Ages, treasured and traded by princes and bishops across Europe. This practical guide explains how just two seemingly simple stitches - split stitch and underside couching - can give extraordinarily complex and sophisticated results that exploit the qualities of silk and gold thread. It introduces new techniques through fourteen projects that progress in difficulty. The book advises on shading, adding detail and authentic use of colour; gives in-depth instruction on stitching faces, hair and hands, as well as wings, animals and landscaping and includes detailed reproductions of original pieces, as well as some with a contemporary twist. The book concentrates on the heyday of Opus Anglicanum, from the twelfth century to the fourteenth, when mastery of this art was at its height.

Summary

Chapter 1: The Origins of Opus Anglicanum

* Discusses the historical background and influences that shaped the development of Opus Anglicanum, a type of English embroidery known for its intricate and luxurious designs.
* Real example: The Bayeux Tapestry, an embroidered narrative of the Norman Conquest of England, demonstrates the precursors to Opus Anglicanum.

Chapter 2: The Techniques of Opus Anglicanum

* Explores the technical aspects of Opus Anglicanum, including the use of gold and silver thread, couching, and other stitches.
* Real example: The vestments of Saint Thomas Becket, which feature elaborate Opus Anglicanum embroidery, showcase the skilled craftsmanship of medieval English embroiderers.

Chapter 3: The Motifs of Opus Anglicanum

* Analyzes the recurring motifs and iconography found in Opus Anglicanum, such as religious scenes, animals, and plant life.
* Real example: The Cope of Ascoli Piceno, an Italian vestment adorned with Opus Anglicanum, depicts stories from the life of Christ.

Chapter 4: The Patrons of Opus Anglicanum

* Examines the role of patrons, both ecclesiastical and secular, in commissioning Opus Anglicanum works.
* Real example: King Edward I, a great patron of Opus Anglicanum, commissioned the Westminter Cope, which is renowned for its exceptional artistry.

Chapter 5: The Trade and Influence of Opus Anglicanum

* Discusses the international trade and influence of Opus Anglicanum, which was highly prized by wealthy individuals and ecclesiastical institutions across Europe.
* Real example: The Victoria and Albert Museum in London houses a significant collection of Opus Anglicanum pieces, demonstrating its global reach and enduring appeal.

Chapter 6: The Decline and Revival of Opus Anglicanum

* Explores the decline of Opus Anglicanum in the late Middle Ages and its subsequent revival in the 19th century.
* Real example: The work of the Royal School of Needlework, founded in 1872, revived the art of Opus Anglicanum and contributed to its preservation and appreciation.

Chapter 7: Modern Interpretations of Opus Anglicanum

* Examines contemporary interpretations and adaptations of Opus Anglicanum techniques and motifs in contemporary art and fashion.
* Real example: The work of contemporary artist Janie Alexander, who uses Opus Anglicanum techniques to create thought-provoking and visually striking sculptures and installations.

Chapter 8: The Legacy of Opus Anglicanum

* Explores the enduring legacy of Opus Anglicanum as an art form that continues to inspire and amaze artists and viewers alike.
* Real example: The display of Opus Anglicanum pieces in museums and special exhibitions around the world ensures its continued appreciation and relevance.