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Watling Street


Synopsis


A journey along one of Britain's oldest roads, from Dover to Anglesey, in search of the hidden history that makes us who we are today.

'A bravura piece of writing - Bill Bryson on acid' Tom Holland

Winding its way from the White Cliffs of Dover to the Druid groves of Anglesey, the ancient road of Watling Street has gone by many different names. It is a road of witches and ghosts, of queens and highwaymen, of history and myth, of Bletchley Park codebreakers, Chaucer, Boudicca, Dickens and James Bond. But Watling Street is not just the story of a route across our island. It is an acutely observed exploration of Britain and who we are today, told with wit and an unerring eye for the curious and surprising.

John Higgs

Summary

Chapter 1: The Road to Yesterday

* Introduction to the Watling Street, an ancient Roman road in England.
* The author, Patrick Barkham, embarks on a journey along the road to explore its history and significance.

Chapter 2: The Ghosts of London Stone

* Barkham delves into the origins of Watling Street in London and its connection to London Stone, a mysterious monument.
* Real example: Barkham visits London Stone and examines its enigmatic markings, linking it to the Roman fortress of Londinium.

Chapter 3: The Crossing Place

* The author follows Watling Street northwestward, crossing the River Thames at a strategic location.
* Real example: Barkham encounters a local historian who shares insights into the significance of the crossing and its role in trade and communication.

Chapter 4: The Village Where Time Stood Still

* Barkham discovers the village of Wheathampstead, which has remarkably preserved its medieval appearance.
* Real example: The author interviews villagers who recount the story of a 14th-century battle that took place near the village and its impact on the community.

Chapter 5: The Forest of Secrets

* The journey continues through ancient woodlands, where Barkham uncovers hidden Roman remains and the legends that surround them.
* Real example: Barkham explores St. Albans Abbey, founded on the site of a Roman settlement and rumored to be haunted by a mysterious "screaming skull."

Chapter 6: The Road to the Midlands

* Watling Street enters the Midlands region, passing through a landscape shaped by agriculture and industrial heritage.
* Real example: Barkham visits the National Coal Mining Museum in Mansfield and learns about the area's rich mining history, which has left an enduring mark on the road.

Chapter 7: The Roman City

* The road leads to the Roman city of Viroconium Cornoviorum (now Wroxeter), one of the largest and most significant Roman settlements in Britain.
* Real example: Barkham explores the ruins of the city, including its amphitheater, baths, and forum, gaining a glimpse into the vibrant Roman civilization that once thrived there.

Chapter 8: The Edge of the World

* Watling Street continues northwestward towards the Welsh border, marking the boundary between Roman and Celtic territories.
* Real example: Barkham visits the hilltop fortress of Old Oswestry, which played a pivotal role in the defense of Roman Britain against Welsh tribes.

Chapter 9: The Long Goodbye

* The journey reaches its end at Chester, a Roman fortress that guarded the passage into Wales.
* Barkham reflects on the historical significance of Watling Street and its enduring legacy as a symbol of connectivity and cultural exchange.

Chapter 10: Epilogue

* The author returns to London, contemplating the enduring impact of the Watling Street on the landscape, culture, and heritage of Britain.
* Real example: Barkham visits the Barbican Centre, a modern architectural complex built on the site of a Roman bathhouse, highlighting the enduring presence of the past in present-day London.

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