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Walking the Great North Line


Synopsis


Robert Twigger, poet and travel author, was in search of a new way up England when he stumbled across the Great North Line. From Christchurch on the South Coast to Old Sarum to Stonehenge, to Avebury, to Notgrove barrow, to Meon Hill in the midlands, to Thor's Cave, to Arbor Low stone circle, to Mam Tor, to Ilkley in Yorkshire and its three stone circles and the Swastika Stone, to several forts and camps in Northumberland to Lindisfarne (plus about thirty more sites en route). A single dead straight line following 1 degree 50 West up Britain. No other north-south straight line goes through so many ancient sites of such significance.

Was it just a suggestive coincidence or were they built intentionally? Twigger walks the line, which takes him through Birmingham, Halifax and Consett as well as Salisbury Plain, the Peak district, and the Yorkshire moors. With a planning schedule that focused more on reading about shamanism and beat poetry than hardening his feet up, he sets off ever hopeful. He wild-camps along the way, living like a homeless bum, with a heart that starts stifled but ends up soaring with the beauty of life. He sleeps in a prehistoric cave, falls into a river, crosses a 'suicide viaduct' and gets told off by a farmer's wife for trespassing; but in this simple life he finds woven gold. He walks with others and he walks alone, ever alert to the incongruities of the edgelands he is journeying through.

Summary

Chapter 1: The Birth of a Dream

This chapter introduces the author's inspiration for walking the Great North Line, a 1,190-mile railway line from London to Aberdeen. The inspiration came from a chance encounter with a fellow passenger who had walked a significant section of the line. The author's fascination with the railway's history and the challenge of walking its entire length sparks the dream of completing this epic journey.

Chapter 2: Planning the Pilgrimage

The chapter outlines the meticulous planning involved in preparing for the walk. The author researches the route, acquires maps and guidebooks, and arranges accommodation and transportation for the 70-day expedition. He also considers the physical and mental challenges of walking such a long distance and devises strategies to overcome them.

Real Example: The author meticulously prepares by studying railway maps, purchasing guidebooks, and booking overnight stays in towns along the line. He also trains by walking long distances with a weighted backpack to simulate the conditions of the journey.

Chapter 3: Into the Heart of England

The journey begins at King's Cross Station in London. This chapter chronicles the first leg of the walk through the vibrant city and the picturesque countryside of southern England. The author encounters friendly locals, admires historical landmarks, and experiences the camaraderie of fellow walkers.

Real Example: The author encounters a friendly farmer who invites him for tea and shares stories of the railway's past. He also witnesses the stunning beauty of the Yorkshire Dales and the iconic Ribblehead Viaduct, which spans a breathtaking gorge.

Chapter 4: The Scottish Highlands

The journey continues into the rugged Scottish Highlands, where the author faces more challenging terrain and weather conditions. He ascends steep inclines, navigates through secluded glens, and encounters wildlife such as deer and golden eagles.

Real Example: The author describes a particularly difficult climb up a steep mountain pass in driving rain. However, the breathtaking views from the summit make the effort worthwhile. He also meets a group of fellow hikers who offer encouragement and camaraderie.

Chapter 5: The End of the Line

The final chapter recounts the author's approach to Aberdeen, the northern terminus of the Great North Line. He reflects on the journey, the people he has met, and the challenges he has overcome. He arrives in Aberdeen with a sense of accomplishment and profound gratitude.

Real Example: The author describes the emotional climax of reaching Aberdeen. He is greeted by family and friends and reflects on the transformative power of the journey. He expresses his admiration for the unsung heroes who built and maintained the Great North Line, and his hope that his walk will inspire others to appreciate this remarkable engineering feat.

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