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Vintage Couture Tailoring


Synopsis


Traditional tailoring is a fascinating craft, which has not changed for many centuries, however, the techniques are now known only by a few practising in the best couture ateliers and bespoke tailor's workrooms. Nothing feels quite so luxurious or sophisticated as bespoke clothes, but the tailoring skills they require are often seen to be shrouded in mystery and the clothes therefore only accessible to the rich and famous. This practical book reveals the trade secrets of couture tailoring and brings vintage couture tailoring within the reach of all.

Thomas von Nordheim

Summary



1. Introduction

Vintage Couture Tailoring is a book that aims to help people learn how to make vintage couture clothing. It provides instructions on a variety of techniques needed to create bespoke garments. From the basics of fabric selection to learning how to drape fabric over a mannequin to create a tailored garment, the book covers the essentials of tailoring. It also discusses how to source apartments, fabrics, and techniques as well as the history of couture. The book also explores different techniques to construct and finish tailored garments. Through topics such as working with and creating custom pattern pieces, the book provides an overview on the subject. It offers a variety of examples from vintage couture clothing to illustrate the information it provides. An example of corseted skirt from 1950s couture clothing illustrates how to form the supporting bones and boning.

2. Pattern Selection and Alteration

The book gives an overview of the different types of patterns available for couture clothing. It also includes information on how to choose the right pattern for a particular garment. The book discusses the importance of understanding the type of fabric to be used when selecting a pattern. It also gives an overview on how to alter a commercial pattern to become more suited to a particular garment. This includes adding curvature to a pattern piece to give it a more tailored look. An example of this is using an existing pattern for a pencil skirt and adding a curved waistline to give it a tailored and couture look.

3. Fabric Selection

The book provides a detailed overview of the different types of fabrics used for vintage couture tailoring. From wool to silk, it explains the importance of selecting the right fabric to create tailored garments. It also offers advice on choosing the right weight of fabric for a particular garment. To illustrate this, the book includes an example of creating a tailored blouse from a lightweight silk fabric.

4. Draping Techniques

Vintage Couture Tailoring provides detailed instructions on the different types of draping techniques. It explains the importance of using a dress form to understand the shape of a garment and how it will fit the body. Techniques such as knife pleating, godets, and box pleating are covered. The book includes practical examples of how these techniques can be used to create a couture piece. As an example, combining knife pleating and godets can be used to create a detailed skirt for a vintage couture dress.

5. Finishing Techniques

The book explains how to create a professional-looking finish to tailored garments. It covers topics such as binding, interfacing, and hemming to create a professional-looking garment. Techniques such as tacking, zigzag stitching, and topstitching are discussed. An example of topstitching a collar is given to illustrate the technique, as well as how to correctly edge a bias binding to hem a sleeve correctly.

6. Sourcing Fabric, Tools, and Techniques

The book provides an overview of how to find the right fabric and tools to complete a tailored garment. It explains where to find apartments, fabrics, and techniques and how to source custom-made pieces. Additionally, the book includes a section on the history of couture and different periods of tailoring. An example of 1940s couture dresses is given to illustrate the techniques used at the time.

7. Troubleshooting

The book covers troubleshooting techniques for when something goes wrong during the process of creation a tailored garment. It also suggests ways to find solutions and ideas to prevent the same problems from happening in the future. As an example, it covers the various methods of pressing a tailored garment correctly to make sure it stays in place. Everything from the multiple layers of fabric to the various types of pressing tools is discussed.

Conclusion

The book Vintage Couture Tailoring provides a comprehensive overview of the process of tailoring. From selecting fabrics and patterns to making garments and finishing them off, the book explains the essential techniques for creating couture clothing. Numerous examples and illustrations are given to illustrate the techniques discussed. It also provides troubleshooting tips to solve any potential issues when creating a tailored garment. Vintage Couture Tailoring is a great resource for anyone interested in learning how to make bespoke couture clothing.