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Stone Setting


Synopsis


Stone setting can often appear mysterious and impossible: an ancient craft used to hold beautiful gems secure in the most elegant of designs. This practical book explains the techniques of the master stone setter in an accessible and encouraging style. Written by Scott McIntyre, it explains the complex world of setting with step-by-step instructions, supported by informative illustrations and excellent examples of finished pieces. It is a manual that shines with inspiration and practical advice. Topics covered include: setting techniques, from bezel, claw and flush, through to single row and multiple pave, then to skilled methods such as channel and microclaw. Advice is given on the options and attributes of each type of setting , as well as ideas for mixing styles and experimenting with setting methods. It is written informally throughout with an emphasis on patience and precision.

Summary

Chapter 1: Introduction to Stone Setting

* Defines stone setting as the art of securing gemstones into jewelry.
* Discusses the history and evolution of stone setting.
* Real example: The ancient Egyptians used gold and silver bezel settings to secure gemstones in jewelry, as seen in the Tutankhamun death mask.

Chapter 2: Tools and Materials for Stone Setting

* Lists and describes the essential tools and materials for stone setting, including gravers, hammers, and anvils.
* Explains the properties and uses of different types of stones, metals, and waxes.
* Real example: A jeweler uses a burin to engrave the bezel of a ring before setting a diamond using a wax setting.

Chapter 3: Basic Stone Setting Techniques

* Introduces the basic stone setting techniques: bezel setting, prong setting, channel setting, and pave setting.
* Provides step-by-step instructions for each technique.
* Real example: A jeweler creates a bezel setting for a gemstone by raising a metal rim around the stone and hammering it over the stone.

Chapter 4: Advanced Stone Setting Techniques

* Explores advanced stone setting techniques, such as invisible setting, flush setting, and micro pave.
* Explains the challenges and requirements of these techniques.
* Real example: A jeweler uses a microscope to set tiny diamonds in a micro pave setting, creating a surface that appears completely covered in gemstones.

Chapter 5: Designing and Planning for Stone Setting

* Discusses the importance of designing jewelry to accommodate the chosen stone setting.
* Provides guidance on selecting stones and metals that complement each other.
* Real example: A designer creates a ring where the bezel setting of the gemstone complements the curvature of the band.

Chapter 6: Troubleshooting and Repair

* Identifies common stone setting problems, such as loose stones or damaged settings.
* Provides solutions for troubleshooting and repairing these issues.
* Real example: A jeweler uses a graver to repair a broken prong on a ring setting, ensuring the gemstone remains securely in place.

Chapter 7: Aesthetics and Finishing

* Explores the aesthetic considerations of stone setting, including symmetry, balance, and the play of light.
* Discusses techniques for polishing and finishing stone settings to enhance their beauty.
* Real example: A jeweler polishes the bezel of a ring to a high shine, creating a contrast that highlights the brilliance of the gemstone.

Chapter 8: Stone Setting for Different Types of Jewelry

* Examines the specific requirements of stone setting for different jewelry types, such as rings, earrings, necklaces, and bracelets.
* Discusses the challenges and solutions for each type.
* Real example: A jeweler uses a channel setting to set diamonds in a bracelet, allowing for a flexible and durable setting.

Chapter 9: Stone Setting as an Art Form

* Highlights the artistic aspects of stone setting, including the ability to express creativity and individuality.
* Showcases examples of intricate and innovative stone settings.
* Real example: A master jeweler creates a complex pave setting featuring a gradient of colored gemstones, resembling a vibrant tapestry.