Queering the Subversive Stitch

Synopsis

The history of men's needlework has long been considered a taboo subject. This is the first book ever published to document and critically interrogate a range of needlework made by men. It reveals that since medieval times men have threaded their own needles, stitched and knitted, woven lace, handmade clothes, as well as other kinds of textiles, and generally delighted in the pleasures and possibilities offered by all sorts of needlework. Only since the dawn of the modern age, in the eighteenth and the nineteenth centuries, did needlework become closely aligned with new ideologies of the feminine. Since then men's needlework has been read not just as feminising but as queer. In this groundbreaking study Joseph McBrinn argues that needlework by male artists as well as anonymous tailors, sailors, soldiers, convalescents, paupers, prisoners, hobbyists and a multitude of other men and boys deserves to be looked at again. Drawing on a wealth of examples of men's needlework, as well as visual representations of the male needleworker, in museum collections, from artist's papers and archives, in forgotten magazines and specialist publications, popular novels and children's literature, and even in the history of photography, film and television, he surveys and analyses many of the instances in which "needlemen" have contested, resisted and subverted the constrictive ideals of modern masculinity. This audacious, original, carefully researched and often amusing study, demonstrates the significance of needlework by men in understanding their feelings, agency, identity and history.

Summary

Chapter 1: Crafting Resistance

This chapter explores the subversive potential of textile crafts, focusing on how marginalized communities have used them as tools of resistance and self-expression.

Real Example: The Guatemalan women's embroidery movement, where women used traditional Mayan embroidery to protest political violence and demand justice.

Chapter 2: Threading Histories

This chapter delves into the historical roots of subversive stitching, tracing its origins in ancient Egypt and beyond. It examines how textiles have been used to challenge societal norms and convey hidden messages.

Real Example: The Bayeux Tapestry, a medieval embroidery that depicts the Norman conquest of England, can be interpreted to reveal the complexities of power dynamics and the experiences of marginalized groups.

Chapter 3: Queering the Stitch

This chapter explores the intersection of queer culture and textile crafts. It examines how LGBTQ+ individuals have used stitching as a means of self-expression, resistance, and subversion of traditional gender roles.

Real Example: The work of artist and activist Patrick Bell, who uses embroidery to create vibrant and provocative pieces that challenge heteronormativity and promote queer visibility.

Chapter 4: Crafting Communities

This chapter discusses the role of textile crafts in fostering community and connection. It examines how shared craft practices can create a sense of belonging and empowerment among marginalized groups.

Real Example: The HIV/AIDS needlepoint group in the 1980s, where individuals living with AIDS came together to create quilts and other textile artworks as a way of grieving, memorialization, and advocacy.

Chapter 5: Stitch as Liberation

This chapter explores the transformative power of textile crafts in promoting personal and social liberation. It examines how stitching can become a tool for healing, self-discovery, and empowerment.

Real Example: The "Yarn Bombing" movement, where activists and artists use yarn installations to reclaim public spaces, spread messages of hope and unity, and challenge social norms.

Chapter 6: Threading the Future

This chapter looks ahead to the future of subversive stitching, examining how textile crafts can continue to empower marginalized communities and challenge societal conventions.

Real Example: The contemporary work of indigenous artists, who use traditional textile techniques to reclaim cultural identities, assert sovereignty, and address contemporary issues.