Chapter 1: Introduction to Jacket Pattern Cutting
The first chapter of the book "Pattern Cutting Techniques for Ladies' Jackets" introduces the reader to the world of pattern cutting and the specific techniques used for creating ladies' jackets. It also discusses the importance of understanding the different body shapes and proportions to create a well-fitted jacket.
To understand the basics of pattern cutting, the author introduces the reader to the concept of blocks and their role in creating a jacket pattern. A block is a basic template or pattern used to create various garment designs. For jackets, the basic block will be a close-fitting bodice with a shoulder slope, bust and waist dart.
A real-life example of using a block to create a jacket pattern would be in a garment factory. A designer may create their own block, or use an existing one, and grade it to create different sizes and styles of jackets. This block would serve as the basis for all the jackets being produced, ensuring consistency in fit and design.
Chapter 2: Pattern Making Tools and Techniques
This chapter explains the various tools required for pattern making, such as rulers, tape measures, scissors, and marking tools. The author also discusses the importance of accuracy and precision in pattern cutting.
In addition to tools, this chapter also covers the techniques used for transferring measurements and creating a basic bodice block. This includes taking body measurements, drawing a basic sloper, and adjusting the block for individual body proportions.
A real-life example of using these techniques would be in a made-to-measure tailor shop where a customer comes in for a custom-tailored jacket. The tailor would take precise body measurements, transfer them onto a paper pattern, and adjust the block to create a personalized pattern for the customer's unique body shape.
Chapter 3: Style Lines and Silhouette Variation
In this chapter, the author discusses the different style lines and design options that can be added to the basic jacket block to create different silhouettes and styles. This includes adding princess seams, darts, and pleats.
For example, a designer may use the basic block to create a fitted cropped jacket with princess seams and a pointed collar. By simply adjusting the style lines, the designer can also create a looser fitting jacket with a flared silhouette and a stand collar.
Chapter 4: Collars
The fourth chapter focuses on the different types of collars that can be added to a jacket. The author covers a variety of collars such as stand collars, notched collars, and shawl collars, and provides step-by-step instructions for drafting and attaching them to the jacket.
A real-life example of using the techniques in this chapter would be in a ready-to-wear clothing store. A design team may decide to create a collection of jackets with different collar options and use the techniques from this chapter to draft and attach them to the jacket patterns.
Chapter 5: Sleeves
This chapter covers the different sleeve options for jackets, including set-in sleeves, raglan sleeves, and kimono sleeves. The author also explains how to calculate and adjust sleeve caps for a better fit and ease of movement.
A real-life example of using the techniques in this chapter would be in a fashion design house. A designer may want to create a jacket with a unique sleeve design, such as a bishop sleeve. By following the instructions in this chapter, the designer can draft the pattern for the bishop sleeve and attach it to the jacket.
Chapter 6: Pockets
The final chapter of the book focuses on different pocket styles and techniques for jackets. The author covers basic patch pockets, welt pockets, and inseam pockets, along with tips and tricks for achieving a professional finish.
A real-life example of using the techniques in this chapter would be in a sewing class where students are learning how to make their own jackets. The instructor may choose a jacket pattern with a patch pocket and teach the students the steps to create and attach it to the jacket.
