Palestinian Walks

Synopsis

Over two decades of turmoil and change in the Middle East, steered via the history-soaked landscape of Palestine. This new edition includes a previously unpublished epigraph in the form of a walk. When Raja Shehadeh first started hill walking in Palestine, in the late 1970s, he was not aware that he was travelling through a vanishing landscape. These hills would have seemed familiar to Christ, until the day concrete was poured over the flora and irreversible changes were brought about by those who claim a superior love of the land. Six walks span a period of twenty-six years, in the hills around Ramallah, in the Jerusalem wilderness and through the ravines by the Dead Sea. Each walk takes place at a different stage of Palestinian history since 1982, the first in the empty pristine hills and the last amongst the settlements and the wall. The reader senses the changing political atmosphere as well as the physical transformation of the landscape. By recording how the land felt and looked before these calamities, Raja Shehadeh attempts to preserve, at least in words, the Palestinian natural treasures that many Palestinians will never know.

Summary

Chapter 1: The Path to Nablus

* Summary: The author, Raja Shehadeh, embarks on a journey to the West Bank city of Nablus, a place he holds deep sentimental value for.
* Real Example: Shehadeh recalls his childhood memories of visiting Nablus with his father and experiencing the bustling markets and vibrant atmosphere.

Chapter 2: The Old City of Nablus

* Summary: Shehadeh explores the ancient Old City of Nablus, tracing the footsteps of generations of Palestinians.
* Real Example: He visits the historic Great Mosque, built by the Crusaders in the 12th century, and marvels at its grandeur.

Chapter 3: The Soapmakers of Nablus

* Summary: Shehadeh meets with local soapmakers, who have been practicing their craft for centuries using traditional methods.
* Real Example: He observes the arduous process of making Nabulsi soap, which involves boiling olive oil with potash and other ingredients.

Chapter 4: The Olive Groves of Burqa

* Summary: Shehadeh ventures outside Nablus to the village of Burqa, renowned for its olive groves.
* Real Example: He witnesses the annual olive harvest, where families gather to pick the ripe fruit and bring it back to be pressed into oil.

Chapter 5: The Village of Askar

* Summary: Shehadeh visits the nearby village of Askar, where he encounters a diverse community of shepherds, farmers, and academics.
* Real Example: He has a lively conversation with a shepherd who shares his insights into the realities of Palestinian life under occupation.

Chapter 6: The Road to Jenin

* Summary: Shehadeh travels to the northern city of Jenin, a region heavily impacted by Israeli checkpoints and military incursions.
* Real Example: He describes the poignant encounter with a woman who has lost her son to Israeli gunfire and the resilience of the local population.

Chapter 7: The Villages of Silat al-Dhahr and Qabatiya

* Summary: Shehadeh explores two villages in the Jenin area, learning about their history and the challenges they face.
* Real Example: He visits the ruins of an ancient Byzantine church in Silat al-Dhahr and speaks to locals who have witnessed the destruction of their homes during Israeli military operations.

Chapter 8: The Path to Jericho

* Summary: Shehadeh returns to the south of the West Bank and makes his way to the ancient city of Jericho.
* Real Example: He marvels at the excavations of the Tell es-Sultan, one of the oldest continuously inhabited sites in the world.

Chapter 9: The Jordan Valley

* Summary: Shehadeh explores the fertile Jordan Valley, a region plagued by Israeli settlements and water scarcity.
* Real Example: He meets with Palestinian farmers who struggle to access their land due to Israeli restrictions and the diversion of water resources.

Chapter 10: The Path to Jerusalem

* Summary: Shehadeh concludes his journey by walking towards Jerusalem, his birthplace and a symbol of Palestinian aspirations.
* Real Example: He reflects on the complexities of living in a divided city and the longing for a just and peaceful resolution to the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.