Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear

Synopsis

Since the first edition was published in 1980, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear has become established as the standard work on this subject and has proved invaluable as both a textbook for students and a reference source for the practising designer.

In this fifth edition, the chapter on computer aided design now has full colour illustrations and reflects the growing importance of CAD to the industry and as a part of fashion and design courses. The rest of the book has been updated where necessary: in particular, new blocks for tailored shirts, new details on how to adapt men's blocks for women's wear, and a revision of sizing and labelling information. Colour is now used to differentiate the main groups of patterns and with its tried and tested layout with clear text and diagrams, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear is an essential purchase for students of fashion and design.

Summary

Chapter 1: Introduction to Metric Pattern Cutting

* Introduces the principles and benefits of metric pattern cutting.
* Provides an overview of the tools and materials required.

Example: Using a metric ruler and protractor to measure and mark fabric accurately.

Chapter 2: Basic Block Construction

* Guides the creation of a basic block, which forms the foundation for all other patterns.
* Covers techniques for measuring, drafting, and cutting the front, back, and sleeve blocks.

Example: Drafting the basic block for a man with a 102 cm chest circumference and 76 cm waist circumference.

Chapter 3: Pattern Manipulation

* Explains methods for modifying the basic block to create different garment styles.
* Includes techniques for grading, adding pleats, shaping waistbands, and creating darts.

Example: Manipulating the basic block to create a shirt pattern with a tailored fit and a pleated front.

Chapter 4: Collars and Cuffs

* Details the construction of various collar and cuff designs, such as spread collars, button-down collars, and French cuffs.
* Covers techniques for drafting, cutting, and attaching collars and cuffs.

Example: Drafting and attaching a spread collar to a shirt pattern.

Chapter 5: Pockets and Other Details

* Provides instructions for creating different types of pockets, including patch pockets, welt pockets, and besom pockets.
* Also covers the construction of other details such as buttonholes, button tabs, and zipper flys.

Example: Patch pocket construction for a pair of pants.

Chapter 6: Garment Assembly and Finishing

* Guides the process of assembling the garment, including sewing seams, attaching collars, cuffs, and other details.
* Covers techniques for finishing the garment, such as pressing, interlining, and adding embellishments.

Example: Assembling and finishing a tailored jacket, complete with lining and buttonholes.

Chapter 7: Advanced Techniques

* Explores more advanced techniques such as pattern grading, pleat and tuck calculations, and fabric drape analysis.
* Provides tips for customizing patterns to fit individual body requirements.

Example: Manually grading a pant pattern to create multiple sizes from a single master block.