Malt

Synopsis

Often playing second fiddle to hops in the minds of craft beer drinkers, malt is the backbone of beer: "No barley, no beer." Malt defines the color, flavor, body, and alcohol of beer and has been cultivated for nearly as long as agriculture has existed. In this book, author John Mallett explains why he feels a book on malt is necessary, taking the reader on a brief history of malting from the earliest records of bappir through to the Middle Ages and Early Modern Period. When Mallett touches on the major changes wrought by the Industrial Revolution and beyond, he illustrates how developments in malting technology were intertwined with politics and taxation, which increasingly came to bear on the world of maltsters and brewers.

Of course, no book on malt would be complete without a look at the processes behind malting and how different malts are made. Mallett neatly conveys the basics of malt chemistry, Maillard reactions, and diastatic power-the enzymes, starches, sugars, glucans, phenols, proteins, and lipids involved. Descriptions of the main types of malt are included, from base malt, caramel malts, and roasted malts through to specialty malts and other grains like wheat, rye, and oats. Information is interspersed with the thoughts and wisdom of some of America's most respected craft brewers.

Understanding an ingredient requires appreciating where it comes from and how it is grown. The author condenses the complexities of barley anatomy and agriculture into easy, readable sections, seamlessly combining these details with high-level look at the economic and environmental pressures that dictate the livelihoods of farmers and maltsters. Mallett explains how to interpret-and when to rely on-malt quality and analysis sheets, an essential skill for brewers. There is a summary of the main barley varieties, both modern and heritage, from Europe and America. The book finishes with what happens to the malt once it reaches the brewery, addressing issues of malt packaging, handling, preparation, storage, conveyance, and milling in the brewhouse.

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Summary

Chapter 1: The Maltings

This chapter introduces the history and process of malting barley, the first step in beer production. Malting converts the starchy kernels of barley into a form that can be fermented by yeast. The chapter covers the steps of steeping, germination, kilning, and cleaning.

Example:

A malting facility in Scotland receives barley from a local farmer. The barley is steeped in water for 48 hours, which triggers germination, the process of sprouting new shoots. After germination, the barley is spread out on a floor and turned regularly to ensure even growth. After about a week, the germinated barley, known as green malt, is transferred to a kiln and heated to arrest germination and dry the kernels. The kilning temperature determines the type of malt produced, with higher temperatures creating darker, more flavorful malts.

Chapter 2: The Brewhouse

This chapter focuses on the brewing process, where the malted barley is mashed, boiled, and fermented. Mashing involves mixing the crushed malt with hot water to convert starch into sugar. The liquid extract from mashing, known as wort, is boiled with hops, which provide bitterness and flavor. The wort is then cooled and transferred to a fermentation vessel.

Example:

At a craft brewery in New York City, the brewmaster mixes crushed pale malt and hot water in a mash tun. Enzymes in the malt convert the starch in the barley into fermentable sugars. The wort is then drained from the mash tun and transferred to a brew kettle, where it is brought to a boil. Hops are added at various points during the boil to achieve the desired bitterness and flavor profile.

Chapter 3: Fermentation

This chapter delves into the fermentation process, where yeast converts the sugars in wort into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The type of yeast and fermentation conditions influence the characteristics of the beer, such as its flavor, aroma, and carbonation level.

Example:

In a fermentation tank at a brewery in California, yeast is pitched into the cooled wort. The yeast consumes the sugars and produces alcohol and carbon dioxide. The fermentation is monitored regularly to ensure the desired temperature and pH levels. After about a week, the fermentation is complete, and the beer is ready for conditioning.

Chapter 4: Conditioning, Carbonation, and Packaging

This chapter covers the final stages of beer production, including conditioning, carbonation, and packaging. Conditioning allows the beer to age and develop its full flavor and aroma. Carbonation, the process of adding carbon dioxide to beer, can occur naturally during fermentation or through forced carbonation. The beer is then packaged in bottles, cans, or kegs for distribution.

Example:

At a brewery in Oregon, the fermented beer is transferred to conditioning tanks, where it rests for several weeks or months. During this time, the flavors of the beer mature and harmonize. The beer is then carbonated using a method called spunding, where a small amount of yeast and sugar are added to the conditioning tank, creating a natural carbonation. The beer is then filtered and packaged in bottles.

Chapter 5: Beer Styles

This chapter explores the diverse range of beer styles, categorized by factors such as flavor, color, and origin. The chapter discusses classic styles like lagers, ales, and stouts, as well as newer and more experimental styles.

Example:

A beer tasting hosted by a local brewery features a lineup of different beer styles. Participants sample a crisp German lager, a hoppy American IPA, a rich and creamy stout, and a sour Berliner Weisse. Each style showcases unique characteristics and appeals to different palates.