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Japan's Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage


Synopsis


Guidebook to Japan's Kumano Kodo, a series of UNESCO-listed pilgrimage routes that crisscross the mountainous Kii peninsula, south of Osaka. Centred on three Shinto-Buddhist shrines known as the Kumano Sanzan, the ancient trails blend great hiking and exceptional natural beauty with a unique insight into Japan's rich history, culture and spirituality. The guide covers the 64km Nakahechi and 63km Kohechi trails in full, as well as the Choishimichi route to Koyasan (20km), the Hongu loop (17km) and highlights of the Iseji trail. It can be used to plan and undertake an independent trek or to enrich an organised tour.

Clear route description and mapping is accompanied by comprehensive details of accommodation and facilities, as well as notes on local points of interest and inspirational colour photography. You'll find a wealth of practical information to help with planning, covering transport, climate, accommodation, budgeting, equipment and safety, as well as fascinating background information on history, religion and wildlife. There is also a Japanese glossary and helpful advice on Japanese customs and etiquette.

The Kumano Kodo offers a different view of Japan: far removed from the modern cities, this is a world of forested slopes, hidden valleys, waterfalls, traditional villages, moss-covered stone deities and tranquil oji shrines. There are opportunities to experience hot-spring bathing and to sample local cuisine as you follow in the footsteps of emperors, samurai, priests and ascetics traversing traditional flagstone paths and forest trails.

Kat Davis

Summary



Chapter 1: The History of the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage

This chapter delves into the rich history of the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage, one of the most sacred pilgrimages in Japan. The Kumano Kodo is a network of ancient pilgrimage routes that have been used for over a thousand years by pilgrims seeking spiritual purification and enlightenment. It has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2004.

The chapter starts with the legend of the Sun Goddess Amaterasu and her grandson, Jimmu Tenno, who is believed to have walked the Kumano Kodo routes in the year 660 BC as a form of worship. The pilgrimage also gained prominence during the Heian period (794-1185) when Buddhist monks and aristocrats would journey to the three Grand Shrines of Kumano: Hongu, Hayatama, and Nachi. These three shrines are considered the heart of the Kumano faith and are believed to be the dwelling places of the three deities who protect the region and its people.

To further illustrate the importance of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, the chapter includes the story of Emperor Uda, who made the journey to Kumano in the year 1185 to offer his prayers for the end of a smallpox epidemic. The epidemic ceased after his visit, and he declared Kumano to be the “Land of the Gods.”

Chapter 2: The Routes and Shrines of the Kumano Kodo

This chapter provides a detailed overview of the various routes that make up the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. These routes are divided into two main categories: Nakahechi and Ohechi.

The Nakahechi route is the most well-known and popular trail, which starts in Kyoto and leads to the three Grand Shrines of Kumano. It is 30 km long and can take 3-4 days to complete, passing through small villages and historical landmarks such as shrines, waterfalls, and suspension bridges. The chapter also mentions the Omine Okugake, a 170 km trek that connects the Nakahechi and Ohechi routes, often considered the most challenging part of the pilgrimage.

The Ohechi route, on the other hand, starts in Tanabe and follows the rugged coastline for 60 km, passing through fishing villages and offering stunning views of the Pacific Ocean.

The chapter also highlights the significant shrines and sacred landmarks that pilgrims encounter along the way, such as the Takijiri-oji, Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha, and Kumano Hayatama Taisha.

Chapter 3: Pilgrims and their Practices

This chapter delves into the unique rituals and practices of pilgrims on the Kumano Kodo. Pilgrims traditionally dressed in white and carried a staff, a hat, and a straw mat to sleep on during the journey. They also chanted prayers, performed purification rites, and made offerings at shrines along the way. Today, pilgrims can choose to walk, cycle, or take a bus or taxi to complete their pilgrimage.

The chapter also introduces readers to the concept of osettai, a traditional practice of giving gifts to fellow pilgrims or locals as an act of kindness and prayer. Osettai can be in the form of food, drinks, or money and is seen as a way to cultivate a spirit of gratitude and generosity.

Chapter 4: The Kumano Kodo Today

In this chapter, the focus shifts to the modern-day Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. It highlights its popularity among both domestic and international tourists, as well as the economic and cultural impact it has on the region.

The chapter also discusses the ongoing efforts to preserve and maintain the Kumano Kodo routes and its significance as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It mentions the various festivals and events that take place throughout the year to celebrate the pilgrimage and the connection between nature and spirituality.

Real-life examples are provided of individuals who have completed the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage and their personal experiences and thoughts about the journey, further highlighting the enduring allure of the ancient trek.

Chapter 5: Walking the Kumano Kodo

The final chapter of the book offers practical advice for those interested in walking the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage themselves. It covers topics such as planning and preparation, what to bring, where to stay, and safety precautions.

The chapter also includes suggestions for alternative routes and attractions along the way for those looking to explore more of the Kumano region.

Overall, the book provides a comprehensive and engaging overview of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, covering its history, routes, traditions, and modern-day significance. It is a captivating read for anyone interested in Japanese spirituality, culture, and the art of pilgrimage.

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