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Cloth That Changed the World


Synopsis


The story of India's exuberantly colored textiles that made their mark on design, technology, and trade around the world

Chintz, a type of multicolored printed or painted cotton cloth, originated in India yet exerted influence far beyond its home shores: it became a driving force of the spice trade in the East Indies, and it attracted European merchants, who by the 17th century were importing millions of pieces. In the 18th century, Indian chintz became so coveted globally that Europeans attempted to imitate its uniquely vibrant dyes and design-a quest that eventually sparked the mechanical and business innovations that ushered in the Industrial Revolution, with its far-reaching societal impacts.

This beautifully illustrated book tells the fascinating and multidisciplinary stories of the widespread desire for Indian chintz over 1,000 years to its latest resurgence in modern fashion and home design. Based on the renowned Indian chintz collections held at the Royal Ontario Museum, the book showcases the genius of Indian chintz makers and the dazzling variety of works they have created for specialized markets: religious and court banners for India, monumental gilded wall hangings for elite homes in Europe and Thailand, luxury women's dress for England, sacred hangings for ancestral ceremonies in Indonesia, and today's runways of Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai.


Distributed for the Royal Ontario Museum


Exhibition Schedule:

Royal Ontario Museum
(April 4-September 27, 2020)

Sarah Fee (editor), Royal Ontario Museum (host institution)

Summary

Chapter 1: The Origins of Cotton

* Traces the history of cotton from its wild origins in India to its domestication in the Indus Valley civilization.
* Examines the use of cotton in ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia and its spread to China and the Americas.
* Real example: The cotton fabric found in the tomb of King Tutankhamun in Egypt, dating back to 1350 BC.

Chapter 2: The Rise of the Cotton Industry

* Explores the growth of the cotton industry in England during the Industrial Revolution.
* Discusses the invention of the spinning jenny and power loom, which revolutionized textile production.
* Real example: The Spinning Jenny machine invented by James Hargreaves in 1764, which drastically increased the speed of yarn production.

Chapter 3: The Cotton Trade and Slavery

* Examines the role of cotton in the transatlantic slave trade.
* Highlights the demand for cheap labor in the cotton plantations of the American South and the forced migration of African slaves.
* Real example: The painting "The Cotton Plant" by Françoise Duparc, depicting the harsh conditions faced by enslaved people in the cotton fields.

Chapter 4: The Social and Economic Impact of Cotton

* Analyzes the social and economic impact of the cotton industry.
* Discusses the growth of urban centers, the rise of the middle class, and the emergence of new industries.
* Real example: The development of cities such as Manchester and Liverpool in England, which became hubs of the cotton trade.

Chapter 5: The Environmental Impact of Cotton

* Examines the environmental impact of cotton production.
* Explores the use of pesticides and herbicides, water consumption, and soil erosion.
* Real example: The decline of the Aral Sea in Central Asia, caused partly by the diversion of water for cotton irrigation.

Chapter 6: The Future of Cotton

* Discusses the challenges and opportunities facing the cotton industry.
* Explores sustainable practices and technologies that aim to reduce the environmental impact of cotton production.
* Real example: Organic cotton farming, which uses natural methods to protect plants and soil health.